There are elephants everywhere! Dozens of them are drinking from the waterhole right in front of the restaurant. More still are coming and going on paths in between the chalets and raised tents that are located in a circle around the waterhole, creating a constant traffic, which we need to negotiate to get to and from the restaurant. I’m in haven! The adrenaline that is pumping through my veins as I look around preparing to cross yet another pathway created by the elephants is exhilarating. Especially, knowing very well just how dangerous elephants can be. It’s quite miraculous, really, that there have been no serious accidents here. Our guide around Elephant Sands … tells us: “It’s because elephants become a lot calmer and more peaceful when they are near water. Any other time they are very aggressive and dangerous.”
It’s hard to imagine the size of a full grown bull elephant, even harder to believe your eyes when you do see one. It’s very intimidating to be so close to a wild animal that is bigger than some houses (certainly the Manx cottages) and can hurt or kill you with ease. Thus being here is not to be taken lightly and safety should always be the primary concern.
There are other animals in the area too. Although, due to the large quantity of elephants visiting this area, they are seldom seen during the day and can only be spotted late at night when the elephant and people traffic has subsided.
We spent 10 hours sitting at the restaurant and its viewing area, just watching the elephants go about their routine. It was fascinating and we never got bored. Every elephant that has come to the water has done so in a great rush, jogging towards it in big leaps and swaying its head from side to side.
There is a definite hierarchy here. An elderly male got pushed away when a small herd of females turned up. It stood aside for a while, eagerly looking at the waterhole, hoping to get another chance to get that coveted drink and a mud bath. After a while it noticed the swimming pool, located on a raised platform next to the restaurant, and was sniffing it out with its big trunk. As it started to climb up, the restaurant staff came out and shooed him away by clapping their hands and making loud noises. So it dropped the idea and walked off. It’s better to come back when the crowds have thinned.
While I was watching that elephant, another one came to only a couple of metres away from me. It stood, watching me intently, while I froze and stopped myself from moving. The viewing area is only slightly raised. And, if the elephant so decided, it could be upon me in seconds. I wouldn’t stand a chance and I was very aware of it. After a few tense moments, the elephant turned around and went back to its mud bath, paying no further attention to me or any other human. I am not quite sure why I caught his attention. Perhaps, it was the clicking noise that my camera made while I was photographing the elephant trying to climb into the swimming. Whatever it was, I was paying a lot closer attention to my surroundings afterwards.
After the sun set down, we lost the sight of elephants in the unlit watering hole. Unfortunately, the rather pungent smell coming from so many large animals doing their business, stayed. As did the flies. In the dark, we were more aware of the noise coming from the watering hole: loud murmuring and rumbling was constant, a very impressive and rather scary trumpeting every so often, and the splash of water.
This place has to be seen to be believed.
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