Friday, 16 May 2014

In Search of the Northern Lights. Day 1

 


Iceland? In January? But isn’t it cold? That’s the sort of response we got from our family and friends when we told them about our upcoming trip. It’s not just cold by the way, the wind is so strong that it threatens to knock you off your feet, sunlight only lasts about four hours each day, and road closures, road closures. So why did we do it? Well, I’ve been wanting to visit Iceland for some time now. It’s got so many unusual, bizarre attractions – ones I have never ever seen before. I’ve seen volcanoes (in the Canary Islands), been on glaciers (Canada), but geysers, iceberg lagoons and boiling rivers are some of the things that I had not.
So, when I heard that the winter of 2013/2014 is a good time to see the Northern Lights, Iceland immediately came to my mind and I got on with organizing. I was well aware of the fact that if you travel there at this time of year, you have to be flexible. My original plan was to drive the Ring Road all the way round Iceland. Unfortunately, that plan didn’t quite work out.
 
 
We started off in Reykjavik – the northernmost capital city in the world – and what a beautiful capital that is too. It’s setting is so dramatic being on the Faxafloi Bay with Mount Esja on the other side. The coastal path is where we started too. We headed out at first light, even before the sun had risen (this was around 10:30 am) J and watched the sun rise over the bay painting mountaintops in pink hues. Our three-year-old daughter was warm and cosy in her snowsuit and many other layers while only her red cheeks and nose showing just how cold it is outside. Her parents, however, where both shivering and thinking about where we could get our next cup of coffee. Whilst we were considering how to keep warm AND see the city, we saw some people dressed in Santa Clause outfits run past us, then some more, then a few crazy ones in shorts, and then a whole bunch in all types of clothing. It was a marathon. Maybe that’s what Islanders to do to keep warm outside, run. Not that we were about to join them, running in freezing temperatures isn’t my kind of activity.
Therefore we headed away from the bay and into the city. At its heart, Reykjavik has a large lake, which during our visit was almost completely frozen over apart from a tiny little area that was overcome by geese and ducks.
My husband and daughter left me taking photos while they ventured onto the ice. And strayed very close to the edge until I started shouting for them to stop. Sometimes ice can look perfectly fine and solid but it has to be at least 10cm thick and edges of the ice are the most dangerous. I grew up knowing the dangers of ice while my husband hasn’t. Luckily, it was strong enough to hold them even rather close to the edge. The rest of the lake was pretty solid and we had lots of fun walking on it and enjoying the views of this low-rise city.
 
After we left the lake we continued to walk through the lovely streets of Reykjavik unlit, after a short trip to the tourist office, we ended up at Hallgrimur’s Church which is Iceland’s tallest building. We had a look inside this pretty church and went up it’s main attraction- the tower. The views are fabulous and unmissable if you’re in Reykjavik.
 
 
 
We loved this very walkable city (even in the cold of winter) but that was only the beginning…

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